All of our product line is proudly made in the United States of America. We have been a manufacturing facility in the heart of the Midwest (Fort Wayne, Indiana) for over 3 decades now!!

Our staff here at VPA often get asked what is the difference between our vented and non-vented broadheads. While there is not a substantial difference with regards to testing results, our team believes there are some slight variations of performance in certain situations. While we pride ourselves on the fact that all of our broadhead products fly like field points, broadheads overall, based on their engineered design, will travel a bit differently then their more sleek counterpart, the field point. On the average, customers can see a bit more forgiveness with regards to flight/accuracy with a vented head compared to a non-vented head. There are some tradeoffs with this though, as you can get some slight noise from air moment with the vented products. With this being said, we suggest customers shoot whatever they feel comfortable with. The overall durability, reliability, and maintenance of each of these products is still second to none!

Vantage Point Archery is one of the largest growing Archery/Outdoor Sports manufacturers in the industry today. Having humbly started as a small company in the heart of the manufacturing midwest, VPA knows what it takes to work tirelessly to develop the most reliable line of products. All of our products boast a one piece CNC machined finish that is superior with flight, durability, and ease of maintenance. Join the VPA team today and see what sets us apart for yourself!

With over 60 different SKU's of products, VPA has one of the largest lineups of broadheads on the archery market. With so many varieties of products we often get asked what the difference is between our 2 Blade and 3 Blade models and why should you purchase one over the other. While much of why someone would choose one of these products over another, is based on personal preference, there are some underlying differences. Just technically speaking, these two models of product lines are engineered for specific purposes. As a rule of thumb, most 2 Blade broadhead models are designed to have a more sleak profile which allows for better penetration on the average. 3 Blade broadhead models with their extra blade, tend to allow for larger entry wounds which in turn develop better blood trails. With both our models, you will not have much variation with regards to durability, flight, or maintenance ease. Along with the technical elements of these products, please also keep in mind your environmental conditions that you will be utilzing these products in, such as type of game, geographical region, and weather related factors.

What is your return and warranty policy?

If for any reason, you are not 100% satisfied with a product you have purchased from us, you may return it within 30 days of purchase for exchange, credit, or full product refund. After 30 days, a 20% restocking charge is required (minimum $5.00 fee).

Please contact us immediately if your product was damaged in any way. Any delay in notification may result in claims being denied. For all other returns, please follow the instructions linked on this page. Refunds, credits, and exchanges are for product value only and do not include shipping costs. Equipment must be in manufacture’s original packaging and be in sell-able condition. Complete form on reverse side and ship items in a sturdy box secured with heavy-duty tape and insurance if necessary. Special orders are excluded.

For a complete warranty policy please check out our helpful guide on our website.

What is your return and warranty policy?

If for any reason, you are not 100% satisfied with a product you have purchased from us, you may return it within 30 days of purchase for exchange, credit, or full product refund. After 30 days, a 20% restocking charge is required (minimum $5.00 fee).

Please contact us immediately if your product was damaged in any way. Any delay in notification may result in claims being denied. For all other returns, please follow the instructions linked on this page. Refunds, credits, and exchanges are for product value only and do not include shipping costs. Equipment must be in manufacture’s original packaging and be in sell-able condition. Complete form on reverse side and ship items in a sturdy box secured with heavy-duty tape and insurance if necessary. Special orders are excluded.

For a complete warranty policy please check out our helpful guide on our website.

It is true that even with having an industry leading product, your equipment will fall short of expectations if you do not properly service/maintenance them. While we do pride ourselves on having some of the most cutting edge and dependable products on the market, it is equally as important to make sure that you have a good plan in place to keep your products at their peak performance. Keeping your broadheads well oiled, consistently sharpened, and protected from the elements all collectively add to a high performing broadhead.

Diamonds vs. Ceramic and Arkansas stones:

These are basic guidelines for stone selection. There are many variables though, like exactly how dull is the blade? Do we need to remove a lot of stock to develop the bevels? and how hard is the steel itself?

Diamond stone Pros:

Diamond stones are far more aggressive than either ceramics or Arkansas stones. The coarser grit diamonds are great for rapid stock removal and for taking an edge from dead blunt to very sharp quickly. Diamonds are the best choice for sharpening blades made from very hard steels with Rockwell hardness above the mid 50s.

Diamonds are also a good choice for people who are new to sharpening and those who consider themselves to be “sharpening impaired”. This is because diamonds produce very good results quickly.

Diamond stone cons:
While diamond stones are great for speed sharpening, they’re not as good as fine ceramics or Arkansas for the final polishing needed to develop a true surgical edge. Diamonds are more expensive than either ceramic or Arkansas stones and contrary to popular belief they do wear out and will need to be replaced from time to time.
Note: While it’s never a good idea to push on any stone while sharpening in order to speed things up, this is particularly true with diamond stones. Diamond stones are manufactured by electroplating (soldering) diamond particles to a steel substrate. Applying excessive pressure while sharpening will quickly destroy the stones by dislodging the particles. Use a light touch and let the stones do the work.

Arkansas Stones Pros:

Arkansas stones are polishing stones. A basic Hard Arkansas is still one of the best polishing stones available. They are inexpensive and very long lasting. Very fine grit Arkansas stones like the black or translucent will polish broadheads far beyond factory sharp. Always finish by stropping (pulling the sharpener backward) on leather or corrugated cardboard.

Arkansas Stone Cons:

Arkansas stones are not intended for rapid stock removal but, for polishing and refining an edge to surgical sharpness. If you were to take a very dull blade and try to sharpen it with only an Arkansas stone you would spend hours trying to get the blade sharp but would likely only succeed in polishing the dull edge. You need to finish "grinding" the edge first with something more aggressive like a diamond stone, coarse ceramic, or in the case of unsharpened glue-on broadheads you might even start with a file or some coarse sandpaper.

Ceramic Stones:

Ceramic stones are kind of the middle ground between the diamond stones and the Arkansas stones.
The Norton combination India stones are our favorite "go to" stones for any blade that is even remotely sharp to begin with. The coarse side is pretty aggressive and the fine side is reasonably fine. This is a great stone for sharpening broadheads which come out of the pack reasonably sharp to begin with. Files, or coarse grit automotive wet/dry sandpaper are better choices for fast stock removal, then go to the ceramics and finish with the Arkansas and a leather or better yet, corrugated cardboard strop.

That's a quick run down but hopefully it shows that none of the above stones are "the best". It's more a question of which type of stone is the best choice for the job you're doing. It’s a good idea to have a variety of different stones so that sharpening broadheads will always be fast and simple.

Our 2 Blade model, while slightly more difficult to sharpen, will still clean up with ease. For the advance archery expert, eyeballing the blade angle on a sharpening stone will work just fine. For someone that is newer to the archery industry, we recommend getting a 2 Blade sharpening kit. We recommend the KME sharpening kit which we also manufacture for their company. This sharpening kit works perfect for the VPA product lineup!!

Many people struggle with sharpening and have difficulty attaining a satisfactory edge. Others can sharpen anything and don't understand what the big deal is. Most likely, the difference is that the ones who can sharpen well have a good understanding of sharpening theory and therefore understand, and can visualize mentally, what is happening to the blade on a microscopic level at each successive stage of sharpening. The sharpening "pro" has a good understanding of what he or she is trying to accomplish and is able to recognize the signs that tell them they accomplished what needed to be done at a particular stage and can now move on to the next. When he/she runs their thumb over the blade they know what they are feeling for. When they look closely at the blade, he/she knows what they are looking for. When he/she tests sharpness by shaving a little hair off his arm, he knows how to do it without cutting himself.

Sharpening is really not all that difficult, and while there are some basic rules that need to be adhered to, there is some room for variations in personal technique. However, before we can sharpen anything, we must have a thorough understanding of what is actually happening to the blade, way down on an almost microscopic level, at each progressive stage in the sharpening process.

BEVEL GRINDING, SHARPENING, HONING

The following describes the worst-case scenario and assumes that we are starting with a very dull blade or a blade blank that has no bevel grind at all. Throughout the process the grits change but the rules don't. If we're just doing a touch-up on an already fairly sharp blade, we certainly wouldn't start with a file, but with a coarse or medium grit stone instead.

To sharpen anything, there are three simple rules of procedure:
1) Maintain a consistent angle
2) Raise a burr
3) Flip the blade, remove the burr.



1) Maintaining a consistent angle:
Regardless of the abrasive we're using, (files, stones, sandpaper, whatever) we need to work the blade at a consistent angle at all times. This is critical at all stages of the sharpening process, be it coarse bevel grinding, sharpening, honing, or even stropping. That's certainly no surprise to anyone. In fact, it's the single most important rule of sharpening. If the file, or stone, or blade wobbles even a degree or two as we work the bevel we will not get a sharp product.

So what angle? We believe that far too much emphasis has been put on the precise numerical sharpening angle. With a few exceptions, and within the bounds of reason, the specific angle is of little consequence. Is there much care if your broadhead blade is beveled at exactly 22-1/2 degrees or do you just want it to be sharp when you're done? If we're free-hand sharpening, it's going to be the angle that feels right to each individual, and it will vary from person to person. For those who have difficulty maintaining a consistent angle when free-hand sharpening, guided systems can greatly reduce possible mistakes, but there are no magic wands.

2) Raise a burr:
Work the blade at a consistent angle until you raise a burr on the opposite side of the blade. What exactly is a "burr"? And why is it so important?

Look at the pyramid on the back of a one dollar bill. The pyramid is a good visual aid in understanding the concept of sharpening. You'll notice the flat top on the pyramid. Imagine the pyramid as a cross sectional view of a dull cutting edge. It's dull because it has a flat on the top. It has a flat on top because the bevels have not been ground sufficiently to form a true intersection. They have been ground at a consistent angle, but not far enough to intersect and raise a burr.

Now think of your blade in cross section ... like the pyramid, it has two bevels that intersect to form a V shape. It is very important that we get those bevels to completely intersect and form a true point on the tip of the V at the very beginning stage of sharpening. That means don't leave your coarsest stone until the blade is very sharp.

If we don't get the bevels to truly intersect at the coarsest stone stage, and the tiniest, microscopic flat is till present at the tip of the V, then we can progress through finer and finer grits and what we'll end up with is beautiful, mirror-polished bevels... and a blade that's dull as a stump. Why? Because finer grit stones don't really make a blade sharper, they only refine the sharp edge we formed at the beginning stages of sharpening.

At the beginning stages of sharpening, as we grind away at the bevel, the filings are cut cleanly from the entire bevel. Now, as we continue to grind away, eventually we get to the point where enough metal has been removed and the bevels will come to a true intersection. There is now no flat spot left at the cutting edge.

At this point there is nothing left to support the structure of the cutting edge itself. The metal has become so thin at the edge that rather than being cut cleanly, it begins to bend or deflect away from the stone ... and that is the burr. If you lightly drag your fingertips straight out from under the cutting edge, you'll feel a coarse, microscopic ribbon of steel along the underside of the cutting edge. As thin as the burr may be, finger tips are very sensitive and you'll be able to feel it. If you can't feel it, that means it's not there and you need to keep working the blade with the coarse stone until you can.

The more we work the bevel, the heavier and more pronounced the burr becomes. Raising the burr is critical because the formation of a good heavy burr is the sign that tells us beyond any doubt, we have ground the bevels to a true intersection, there is no longer a flat spot on the cutting edge, and we can now move on to the opposite side of the blade.

Flip the blade and remove the burr:

So now we have ground the bevel sufficiently on one side of the blade to raise a burr on the opposite side. Next we flip the blade and repeat the exact same process on the other side. The first few strokes over the stone will remove the burr and now we just need to give equal treatment to this side of the blade so that the bevels will be uniform on both sides and keep the cutting edge centered on the blade. Work the second side of the blade for the same amount of time or number of strokes you used on the first side. Now you will have a burr raised again, but on the opposite side of the blade. At this point it’s time to get rid of the burr and expose the sharp edge hidden beneath it. The way to do this is with alternating strokes on each side of the blade. Move the blade into the stone as though you were trying to shave a thin slice off the stone. If you’re using a rod-guided system, it’s the same except that you move the stone instead of the blade. Five or six alternating passes are about all that’s needed to finish up.

At this point you will have a very sharp blade, but only "coarse sharp." Next, you need to refine the edge by repeating the process with successively finer grit stones until you’ve reached the level of polish and sharpness you want.

The two main products that you will need insight on with regards to sharpening are our 2 Blade and 3 Blade models. Our 3 Blade model is one of the simpilist products to sharpen on the market. This model can simple be laid flat on a sharpening stone and sharpened by passing each of the sides through different series of stone grits. We also recommend finalizing the sharping process by using a leather strope to hone it in as a last step.